Is it possible to reverse sun damage?

Summer has come and gone and our garden umbrellas, beach towels and swimwear for most of us are destined to remain in storage until next year. But as the weather cools down, some vestiges of the summer months may not be disappearing including sun damage sustained by spending time outdoors without adequate sun protection. Even the most careful of us will have acquired some damage. As consultant dermatologist Dr Ophelia explains, “As we get older, it’s the cumulative damage from previous years that manifests itself on our skin such as redness, pigmentation, fine lines, wrinkles and loss of volume (from collagen levels getting lower).”

Whilst we cannot reverse the DNA damage that the UV radiation has done to our skin cells’ DNA, the good news is that we can treat and improve the appearance of sun damaged skin. Dr Ophelia explains, “You can treat, reduce, and repair the effects of sun damaged skin with a combination of topical products in clinic treatments. It’s just a question of visiting your dermatologist to establish your particular areas of concern and come up with a plan together. There are effective treatments that can remove skin discolorations, reduce wrinkles, smooth out skin and stimulate collagen.” Here is Dr Ophelia’s checklist of treatments and ingredients that can help reverse the visible signs of UV damage.

Retinol

Retinol, is the gold standard ingredient for improving the overall look of the skin. It is a derivative of Vitamin A and works by encouraging cell turnover and increasing collagen production both of which help set damage skin cells on a healthier course. Available in both over-the-counter and in prescription strengths, retinol works to combat nearly all the signs of sun damage from fine lines and wrinkles to the evening out of skintone. Dr Ophelia’s range of bespoke skincare uses prescription strength quantities of tretinoin and each product is tailor made to your needs so you will get results . There is interesting new evidence which shows that when Vitamin A is used in the form of retinyl palmitate, it may also help protect cell DNA from UV damage. But it’s crucial to note that all forms of retinol also make the skin more sun sensitive so it is imperative to use an SPF50 everyday of the year when you’re using a retinol.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C is an antioxidant powerhouse which neutralizes free radicals, the chemicals that cause damage to your skin due to UV exposure. Vitamin C can stimulate collagen production and it can also help fade pigmentation and even out your skintone. Vitamin C is also anti-inflammatory so can calm down an inflamed skin. The concentration is important. It should be a concentration of 10- 20% for it to be effective. Anything less might not be effective and anything more could irritate your skin. The packaging is also important with Vitamin C as it is notoriously unstable. Look for Vitamin C products in dark, airtight containers to ensure maximum efficacy as exposure to air and light can degrade Vitamin C. The Vitamin C in Dr Ophelia’s bespoke skincare is packaged correctly with prescription strength doses of vitamin C and vitamin E for maximum efficacy.

Laser Skin Resurfacing

Lasers can be one of the most effective ways of treating sun damaged skin. They remove the damaged top layer of skin and increase collagen production which makes the skin’s surface smoother and provides a more even appearance. Laser skin resurfacing can treat uneven skin pigmentation, age spots, fine lines and wrinkles and more. Fraxel laser is very good for treating fine lines and wrinkles. Intense Pulse Light (IPL) can be used with great success to treat pigmentation and redness.

Thermage FLX

Thermage FLX will help lift and tighten the skin and can also improve collagen production which depletes with UV exposure. Thermage FLX is one of the most intense and effective forms of Radiofrequency (RF). RF is commonly referred to as a treatment than can have a ‘shrink-wrapping’ effect to the face. It does this by heating up the lower layers of the skin to 42 degrees C at which point the existing collagen contracts. The radiofrequency energy makes the skin think it is injured so that it starts to produce growth factors and new collagen to help heal the perceived wounds. In due course, this collagen will show up on the surface of the skin as smoother, firmer, tighter skin

Peels

Chemical peels have come a long way from the harsh peels which were launched in clinics years ago which required substantial downtime where skin effectively would flake off and newer, fresher skin would be revealed underneath. In essence they work on the same process today but most are far gentler in their approach. During a a chemical peel, a liquid is applied to the skin which removes the outermost layer of the skin so new skin comes to the surface. Peels can be effective for removing brown spots and treating fine lines and wrinkles. They will also improve your skin tone and texture.

Photodynamic Therapy

According to Dr Ophelia, Photodynamic therapy is “a much underrated treatment, and is the gold standard for cleaning up background sun damage and pre-cancerous skin changes.” In this therapy, the skin is coated with medication and a blue or red fluorescent light activates the medication. Photodynamic therapy destroys pre-cancerous cells while leaving normal cells alone. Treatment may cause a sunburn-like reaction which can take one to two weeks to heal.

Prescribed Topical Creams

Treating superficial signs of sun damage and pre-cancerous sun spots such as ‘actinic keratosis’ can be done with chemotherapy based creams (such as Efudix, Aldara and Solaraze) but these can result in significant inflammation and may take week or months to resolve.

SPF

Dr Ophelia’s number one recommendation for preventing sun damage is to start wearing SPF every day of the year, even in cloudy, wet weather. “UV rays penetrate through clouds and glass windows, so we really should all be wearing SPF every day of the year to help protect against skin cancer and skin ageing. Brands like Skinceuticals and Heliocare offer excellent formulations which don’t leave any white caste on to the skin and are lightweight and a pleasure to use. Furthermore, they include skincare ingredients which will help reverse existing sun damage.

By Lucia Ferrai